Hakama are trousers, part of traditional man dress. Now Japanese put on kimono very seldom but they get on hakama even more seldom. You can meet Japanese in hakama only at his wedding or tea-ceremony.
Hakama carry out several useful functions. For instance, be dressed over kimono hakama save it and also heat of body. First hakama look like four cross-linked pieces of fabric. Gradually their cut has been changing and hakama took the present form.
Hakama give a solidity to man. Back of hakama is special small board kosi ita. It makes hakama fit well. Kosi ita also helps to look more slender.
Now there are two main kinds of hakama - hakama for riding and one in shape of lantern.
Hakama, back view
Fabric
The most valuable silk fabric for hakama was made in Sendai and called "sendai-hira". But now manufacture in Sendai fell into decay and the majority of fabric is manufacturing in Ionezava. This fabric is called "ionezava-hira". But hakama also are sewed from crepe, wool and tussore.
Hakama from striped sendai-hira of gray or brawn color give the best fit to ceremony dress. Hakama from plain one-color fabric go well with another clothes.
For everyday wearing they use so called "field hakama" (nobakama). Nobakama's bottom is narrower. This trousers have tucks which impart solidity.
One sort of nobakama is known as "karusan hakama". The word "karusan" came from Portuguese "calcao" that means wide trousers. Once Japanese saw "calcao" on Portuguese sailors and imitated its cut.
